An amusingly named summit that’s annoyingly in our way. A vertical 500 metre climb at 7am was tough going for me! Once we were up and off though we found the track absolutely packed, with Maori families all jogging up and back down. Even the nannas were getting stuck in. Awesome! I don’t know if the hill had special significance or if it was a special day maybe, or if the local white kiwis just weren’t into jogging. Who knows, but it sure was a popular forest track :) Flippin’ windy at the top too.
Colonial Knob
Half Way Across New Zealand: 1500km On Foot!
Wuhoooo We Made It To Wellington! Half Way Across New Zealand… So that’s the North Island bagged! 1500km done and dusted. I can’t really believe I’ve actually done it to be honest. What kind of mental person would have decided that was a good idea? :) Weirdly, in a sense I don’t feel any different, but in other ways I do, I mean.., surely I must be fitter right?
Pleased with myself though. I mean, that’s a long old stroll in anyone’s book, never mind a shortie like me ;) And although there are a couple of gaps in what we’ve covered, we’ve also done a lot of extra miles not officially on the trail. So I’d say we’re square ;)
We’ve surely seen some sights, met some weird and wonderful people, we’ve laughed a lot, drunk a lot, eaten a lot, conquered a few fears and shed a few tears. The tans are coming on a storm, and I reckon the walk to work will seem hilariously small after all this! My main worry is how far my brain might have ‘relaxed’ into retardation, and how much, if any will be left after a whole other island’s worth of adventuring :)
Finally Wellngton is in sight! We knew we were getting near, the suburbs were slowly creeping up the mountain towards us, but we couldn’t quite see it until now.
I’d always thought when planning this trip that the North Island would be the warm up and the South Island was the ‘proper’ walk. Although in the end the North has thrown more challenges our way than I was expecting and has left me feeling slightly bitter sweet. We’ve had to bypass sections of trial due to wind, rain, swollen rivers, wrong side of tides, lack of enthusiasm for thick forest, lack of interest in road walking and fatigue. Its not been the satisfying, battle on through hell or high water type experience that I’d hoped for, we’ve had to compromise. In the end we didn’t follow the Te Araroa to the letter, we tried to keep it fun, see what we wanted to see and avoid unpleasantness where possible.
Our main challenge was getting Nicky fit. She’s still regaining her strengh after a long illness and in Nicky’s own words ‘a lifetime of inactivity’. It wasn’t that long ago that 5 minutes of walking would exhaust her and climbing the stairs at home was a massive achievement. Now she’s walked half way across New Zealand, albeit with a little help from her personal Sherpa ;) and is stronger than ever. That’s a massive accomplishment and I’m very proud of her :D So 3 months in, we’re halfway, pretty much on schedule, warmed up and now ready for the South Island!
View over Wellington
Right, we can see Wellington, now it’s just a matter of getting down there.. The Te Araroa takes the scenic, rather than direct route into town. We thought we’d made it to civilization then the trail took us off road down a thin slither of bush cutting through the suburbs. Out on the other side of Trelissick Path and halfway up the ridiculously steep Weld Street, we were starting to seriously consider catching some public transport! Luckily we were invited in for coffee by a lovely couple who were curious about the trail, so fueled up on caffine and Christmas cake, we pushed on to our pre-booked ‘special treat’ hotel on Cuba Street :) Well knackered by the time we arrived.
Across the Cook Straight on the Interislander
So we’re off! Bye bye North Island… Hello South Island. After a bit of grey and miserable time in Wellington, what with weather, computer crashes, upset tummies, shops closed, and general knackeredness, in a way we were glad to be on the move. Wellington hadn’t been the all singing, all dancing, brazilian carnival of a celebratory finale that I’d imagined.
But now, we were movin on, preparing to start a new phase, and it felt good. Proud of what we’d achieved, we climbed aboard our lift to Part Two of the holiday. The sun was shining, and the fish and chip shop was open. Life was good again :)
After feeling slightly underwhelmed by the achievement of ‘halfway’ while in Wellington, the boat ride across the Cook Straight was quite satisfying, it finally sank in that we’d done the North Island and we’re starting a new exciting leg of our journey.
Some of you may be wondering about this fancy photo montage? We downloaded a new app while in Wellington called Diptic, I’m mighty impressed with it so far, more examples to come! While I’m on the subject of iPad apps, I’ve been meaning to mention Photogene for a while, we use this one to crop, resize and FTP photos to our server, an invaluable tool for blogging on the road. We had a minor disaster in Wellington trying to update this app to the latest version, it required us update the iPads iOS. Big mistake.. The staff a Magnum Macs were very patient with us while iTunes did it’s back up thing many times (Apple, really?), not a quick task when you have 30GB of photos on it.. Anyhow we weren’t patient enough and cancelled the secondary good measure back-up, after the first or second back-up, we lost count.. We corrupted the back-up which meant there was no longer a back-up to back-up from, so we had to restore it to factory settings and lost everything on there.. Oh well, not really a big deal, just a wasted day hanging around in a shop..
Cookie on the Cook straight
Cookie is always a good model for a photo :) I think he has a more expressive face than me. And whenever there’s a chance for a comedy picture he’s always right there! It was incredibly gusty on the boat on the way over but roasting hot at the same time, so it made for some fun mucking about on deck trying to keep our shorts from flapping up and our t-shirts from turn inside out :) Cookie even spotted some wild dolphins chasing us and leaping in and out of the wake. I was inside eating my fish and chips ( with a nice glass of wine ) and missed them - doh! Who had the best deal there?
Windy Welly was nothing compared to the wind we encountered on the Cook Straight, the force of it tipped the ferry over on to a jaunty angle as we sailed across. But we had a lot of fun battling our way along the side decks taking pictures of each other getting blasted by it! Love this picture Nicky took of me :)
Top Tip: We choose Interislander Ferry mainly because of their nice ads on the telly, but after buying our ticket online and heading down to the docks we realized that the Bluebridge ferry company has a much more centrally located port for folk on foot like us..
Picton to Endevour Express
Starting to feel like we’ve begun Holiday Mark II properly now. Once again it’s about looking forward rather than looking back and reminiscing. Kind of sad to have left the North Island. Had a lot of fun and met some great people. So many different characters, with different view points on life and their country. And if the North Island might be characterized by the cities, and the farming, what will we find in the South? Much less people I hear. And much bigger mountains… I think the hard stuff might be about to begin :)
We collected supplies from Picton, had the hottest although most disappointing curry of the whole holiday and booked our one-way transport to ship cove. $67 with Endevour Express’s speedy catamaran. For a bit extra you can get them to deliver your pack to various resorts along the track each night, tempting, but of course we didn’t!Captain Cook & Ship Cove
So this is the Official Start to the “Te Araroa Part Deux… The Revenge”, the Cook monument. As you can imagine Cookie was excited to see a huge lump of rock with his name on. And with the sun out and surrounded by palms, ferns, and turquoise water, we felt much more in the ‘Half Way celebratory mood’ than back over in wet grey Welly. Part Two started to feel like it might not be all cold grey mountain despair, and might include some tropical summer sunshine and fun after all :) After a leisurely boat trip over, a good stint mucking about taking photos and dancing for the video, plus a few shots a-straddle-the-cannon, and some time reading the info boards, we’d left ourselves only a half day’s walking to do :)
Not sure how well known Captain Cook is around the world? But he’s pretty famous back home and here in New Zealand. The first European to set foot on New Zealand soil, plant a flag for king and country and all that. He first landed here at Ship Cove in January 1770 and by all accounts did a stirling job of mapping New Zealand’s coastline.
It’s not every day that you get to a massive monument with your name all over it, we were both quite duly excited (Nicky will be a Cook soon too). We’re not related though, well not that I know about!
Queen Charlotte Track
This Queen Charlotte Track is great. Long smooth flat gradient. Little houses and quirky stuff along the way. Bright blue sky. Glittering water. Bloody lush it is! Check out the cool old boat we just passed, Top Cat painted on the side :D We’ve got about four days of this, snaking around the bays and coves, and through the bush, at the very top of the South Island. Should be sweet!
Our history isn’t that good, so we’re guessing when we say that the aforementioned Queen Charlotte was probably King George’s wife? The track probably named after her is 71km long, but we have another 17km extra to connect it to our next resupply town, Havelock. We’re aiming to get there in 4 or 5 days (it was 4 in the end).
The track crosses a mix of DOC and private land and there’s a $12.00pp fee to be paid towards it’s upkeep, which seems fair as a lot of work has gone into this track. It’s wide and easy graded, nice change to be able to walk side-by-side all day.
Probably the best campsite in New Zealand
We loved this place! After a long hot and sweaty day’s walk there is nothing better when you are expecting a regular DOC type campsite to find something very special like this. Tony Madsen’s put so much heart and soul, and thoughtful touches into this garden-like camp. Tiered grassy spots with winding paths and solar lights, a hammock for snoozing in, the freshest long drop loo I’ve ever been in. He’s even made a special outdoor solar shower area so you can wash your hair whilst taking in the jaw dropping views high over the glittering blue water. Absolutely gorgeous. It made us wish we’d spent a rest day here rather than in the capital. We had two private beaches to ourselves, and wild Weka birds to play with. ( They love trying to seal your kit! So much fun! ). I had the best night’s sleep there, although that might have had a bit to do with our fresh rum and lemon sunset cocktails! A little dip in the sea and collecting handfuls of fresh mussels for Cookie to cook up in the pot was just amazing. Our first wild-caught food!
If you’re thinking of doing the Queen Charlotte Track, you *must* spend your first night with Tony Madsen. He is such a character! And has the loveliest little dog called Bob :) There were even hand carved walking poles for sale out on the path with an honesty box. You can’t help but love this place!
After walking across half of NZ, I think we can say this with 50% accuracy that Madsen’s Camp is the best campsite in New Zealand!
Toilet so clean you could eat your dinner off it, hammock, two beaches, solar showers, BBQ, picnic table, really friendly host and more mussels than you could shake a stick at. This was by a long way not only the best campsite we’ve been to in New Zealand but the best either of us have EVER been to! Mainly because the chap running it was sooooo nice, he showed us the best place to collect mussels, taught us how to cook them up, he cleaned the toilet each day with fanatical precision, composted your food waste, burnt your rubbish, this place was like heaven.
Awesome Elevensies at Big Bay
When we started this big adventure I’d read that the North Island was the subtropical one, and the South was more temperate. So I’d imagined the palm tree magic might be over by the time we got here. But no so! What a lush place for an elevensies snack bar wouldn’t you agree? I just had to pop my socks off and have a wade about in the cool waters. I saw a fish!… But it was only 5cms or so long. Not much meat on that for tea ;) We were joined again by our intelligent bird brained friends the Wekas. Once again coming to check us out and see if we had any tea spoons or shiny watches worth nicking. This poor fella only had one eye, but that didn’t slow him down. In fact I started to wonder if it was just a marketing ploy to make you feel sorry for him and put you off guard ;) You know these fellas can out-run rabbits and rip guinea pigs apart at the seams? Our Weka expert back at Owlcatraz said they hunt very much like the Velocoraptor’s in Jurassic Park… But I think he’s kinda charming… for an Evil Chicken
Our awesome time on the Queen Charlotte track continues. We normally have a 15min break at eleven, but today’s spot at Big Bay under the shade of this tree, watching the Tony Blackbirds (oyster catchers) was so bloody nice we stayed for an hour :)





