Coming down off Mt. Starveall

A large gulp, and a firm foot were needed as we struck out into the moor land after lunch. Those walls of rock were hard to ignore as we strode out onto ‘the tops’ - the gradual slopes leading to our first ‘taster peaks’. Breezy but sunny I was thankful of visibility after the white-outs of the Tararuas, but in another way I wondered if it were better not to have to ponder the severity of what may lay ahead. Either way. We were here now, and it was beautiful, if rather ominous, and we were going to give it our all. Checking the hut books, and all the Te Araroa hikers ahead of us had managed it ( as far as we knew ) and so, if they could do it, so could i… It probably just looks menacing from a-far right?
Our first peak of the Richmond Alpine Route was pretty easy, and a relatively short day by Alpine route standards. We just have to follow this ridge below to get to our hut for the evening, nestled on the northern slopes of Slaty Peak ahead.
Sat 5th Feb
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Withered Beech Forest

Struggling to grow on these high exposed ridges, the poor beech trees look all stunted and skinny.. Nice respite from the sun in their shade though, and their tiny leaves scattered on the floor make for a nice soft carpet to walk on :)

Sat 5th Feb
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Follow the Orange Lollypops

This is our first real taste of a ‘poled route’ since we were blown out of the Tararua and never completed the Southern Crossing.. Basically a poled route hasn’t got any worn-in tread to follow, just and line of sticks indicating the general direction. Some of the ‘discs’ (which I think is their name?) seem to be handy targets for hunters who can’t find any stags to shoot at up here!

Sat 5th Feb
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Slaty Peak at Sunset

High up at 1500 meters and with interesting clouds forming, I decided it was probably going to be worth the effort to scramble up to the summit of nearby Slaty Peak to take some pictures of the sunset. It definitely was.

Sat 5th Feb
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Sunset over Mount Rintoul

Amazing sunset tonight, too many pictures to choose from as the sky was set of fire by the waning sun. Love this Mt. Doom-esque shot of Mt. Rintoul which makes tomorrows climb up it feel like a Lord of the Rings type endeavor..

Sat 5th Feb
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Early morning start for ‘The Big One’

From Slaty Hut we set out for The Big One. Of all the Te Araroa this was said to be the hardest section. And today, today was the hardest day of that section. 10hours of ‘extreme’ lay ahead before we could rest our heads at the next hut. Three whole mountains lay in-between us and safe passage. Fingers crossed for the weather!

Writing this a few days later it’s all a bit if a blur of sweat, tears, fears, cuts and bruises. But, in a way, it was awesome. Awesome in the way that you truly appreciate being alive! Awesome, in the way that you achieved something you never thought possible. And awesome in the way that you’ve experienced something hardly anyone in the world has. I’d say that makes it worth it.

But enough if that. Lets get back to the horror! ;)

The Richmond Alpine Route is considered the hardest section of the Te Araroa, and the route over Mount Rintoul is considered the hardest part of the hardest section, today is going to be hard by all accounts!

We were up good and early this morning to make sure we had plenty of time to get over and down to Rintoul Hut on the other side, the trail notes reckon it’s going to be a 10 hour day. That’s a long day for us, we’re quite work shy ;)

Sun 6th Feb
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Mt. Rintoul in the Background

Behind me is where we’re going today, our route isn’t the most direct though, the ridge we’re following curves around in a horseshoe shape, it’s virtually all above the bush line.

Sun 6th Feb
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View north toward Mount Richmond

Mount Richmond, which this park is named after is the highest peak in the area, 1700 and something or other meters. I think this is the view back to it, although my strip maps aren’t big enough to actually show where it is. This looks a pretty big hill, higher than us anyhow! There was actually a route up it from Middy Hut if you fancy doing some peak bagging, but we didn’t fancy making this long section any longer.

Sun 6th Feb
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Over the top of Old Man

We’ve turned the corner of the horseshoe now and are now lined up straight with Rintoul dead ahead. We were making great progress on the big rounded ridge tops in the morning, felt good to be stretching our legs after slow progress along the river. Although the section of ridge between Old Man Peak and Old Man Hut was is a bit slower progress.

Sun 6th Feb
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Boulder Field climb up Little Rintoul

Mt Rintoul ( and Little Rintoul on the approach ) is a mass of loose rock, sharp scree, very very steep exposed slopes, and boulder fields. When you climbed the boulders, they wobbled. Their rough volcanic surfaces grating your legs as you tumbled around them, sticks clattering. When you climbed the ridges, there were steep steep drop-offs for hundreds of meters, and brittle ledges of slate you hoped would take your weight as you shimmied round clinging on, butt swaying in the wind, fingernails clamped in and curling under your grip. When you sidled the slopes of loose scree the depth was thin, not enough to kick a step, or wedge a boot, just to press your foot flat and pray the marble-like balls of rock wouldn’t slide out from under you before you had the chance to place the next step. The perspiration was of a different sort today - pure fear! My heart beats faster even writing this… :)

Sun 6th Feb
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